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I have some questions about my alternator, I am not positive that it actually is the alternator yet, I plan to do a poor mans stethoscope (screwdriver) test on it, to be sure it is not the power steering, belt tensioner, or water pump.
I know it is coming from the alternator area.
Here is a video/audio of the sound.
http://skydrive.live.com/?cid=92581...#cid=9258175A8DAD2BB5&id=9258175A8DAD2BB5!242

Does it sound like the alternator to any of you?


If it was a bearing in the alternator, could I change that myself without a press?
If it turns out to be my alternator, I thought about rebuilding it while I am at it, I found an upgraded 200A Rectifier Bridge, and a 200A Stator, both are made for my CS-144 alternator, if I went that method I'd spend around 125.00 or so, unless I need to also get a better voltage regulator, the bearing is only like 5.00.
Hopefully the brushes are still good, the alternator is the original one from 96'

I know usually you will spend as much getting a new one, as you would a rebuilding it yourself, but the only reason I considered it is I'd have an alternator ready to handle anything I may throw at it when I am not poor anymore, lol
For the price of the stuff to upgrade/rebuild my current alternator I'd be gaining the ability for it to handle any future possible loads.

Here are the videos I watched on rebuilding it, it really does not seem that complicated.

Part 1 - GM's CS144 Alternator Rebuilding, Alternator Repair. Visit www.AlternatorParts.com - YouTube

Part 2 - GM's CS144 Alternator Rebuilding, Alternator Repair - YouTube


Here are the two main parts.

CS144 Series Alternator 200 Amp High Output Stator

DR5180PF Heavy Duty Bridge Rectifier for CS144 Series Alternators


Would doing that rebuild be worth it, or is just getting a new, or already rebuilt 140A one with a warranty be a better idea?
Or am I over-thinking it all, if it was the bearing only and I can get it out and in myself, then I am sure that would be the most cost effective method, I only started considering the upgrade when I thought my alternator was bad to due dimming lights at stop\idle, I found out that below 1,000 RPM;s the battery is used, then when you get back up over 1,000 RPM's the alternator kicks back in, I read that was normal...
 
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