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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am wonder if anyone know whether you actually need the alignment pin on the crank shaft sensor? There are two bolts, above and below the pin, and while replacing the cover today, the pin fell out, and I cannot seem to find it. If it's for alignment only, it seems unnecessary, but if it's part of the signal pickup, I obviously need to find it, or find where I can get one. Anyone know?
 

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I would venture a guess that it'd stay aligned with the 2 bolts, but I'm sure the pin provides an extra bit of stabilization.

If you want to put vise grips on the other one above the water pump port and rotate to pull it out, you could A) swap it to that side, or B) measure it and see if you can get new pins from the hardware section at Tractor Supply, Ace, Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.

If you want one from another engine, check eBay, classifieds, or your local junkyard for a front cover being sold that has it still there (or someone willing to pull it from the block).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Dezi, I decided to look some more, and actually found the pin. It's back together now. Appreciate your response though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK, I want to say thanks so much for the responses to my previous questions, and now am back together with all the repairs/replacements but not able to get the car to idle long w/o getting P0068 code.

History:
This all started in April, with the car presenting P1125 & P2138 codes after displaying the 'reduced engine power' and the 'service traction active' alarm as well, once I applied brakes. I did some code research, online and performed the following checks/repairs. Checked for vacuum leaks using starter fluid, cleaned the MAS w/ appropriate cleaner, and cleaned the upstream side of the butterfly and TB neck. I began reducing my drive times considerably while trying to assess the cause. I thought ground could be an issue, as I had installed a Sony XAV-AX100 stereo and a backup camera. (I installed per manuf. recommendations, using manufactured harnesses, not a cut and splice job.) I'm fairly certain ground is not the problem. Research taught me about the multiple sensor balancing act, and drive by wire systems associated with these codes. I installed the Fixd scanner and began monitoring with it. How, when, and why was pretty undiscernible, and the codes came up the same for the most part. One wet morning it actually accelerated, momentarily, on it's own, which obviously was of great concern, and I believe I prompted a P0305, along with the other two codes. I didn't really want to just start trading out parts but finally decided to replace the radiator, and that brings us to today. The W-body has 375,000 miles on it, the motor and transaxle probably 150,000 +.

Below is the list of changes/repairs to the intake/fuel management system.
1) New camshaft and crankshaft sensors
2) New MAP sensor
3) New Canister Purge Valve
4) New throttle body w/ position sensor
5) New accelerator pedal
6) Gaskets : I only mention these, as they could be effecting vacuum, if I did not get a good seal on all.
timing chain cover
water pump
lower intake, and plenum gaskets
thermostat gaskets (goose neck & access plate on throttlebody of lower intake)
7) New injectors
8) Cleaned MAS again at reinstall

I also replaced transmission filter, and cooling lines, water pump, radiator and condenser, heater core, radiator hoses, AC dryer line, all AC o-rings.

I believe that is it.

I have not performed any sync/calibrations for any of the replaced sensors. At this juncture, the car starts, a little hard, drops to about 13-1400 rpm in a rough idle, then codes the P0068, in about 30 seconds, and the same display warnings, only 'service traction active' follows immediately, w/o applying brakes.

Thanks so much for any help anyone can provide.
 

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Year, make, model?
 

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Might want to disconnect that radio for giggles. I've had issues connecting/programming 2000+ Chevy's and 2004+ Pontiac's as they integrated the radio on the common bus as they approached the CAN era (had to pull radio fuse while uploading tunes for safety). I could see it being a random angry signal on that line,. depending on what wires go where.

Not guaranteed to help, but might as well do a quick free check that only takes you a few minutes to setup for a day to test drive, hopefully.
 
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