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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've heard from different people different ideas on how to properly break in an engine after a complete rebuild.

Please post proper engine break in schedule but please include oil to be used for break in as well as spark plugs to be used and what not.

I'm interested to see what you guys respond with.
 

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I'm not sure what the recommended procedure is, but you shouldn't use synthetic oil initially. Everything I've seen says regular oil is the best for break in, then switch to synthetic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yes, it's mostly said not to use synthetic to break the motor in.
I was looking for information on break in oil weight, obviously you must change it a couple of times right off the bat but at what intervals, and what plugs to use.
I was also looking for a proper technique...
I don't think it's good to keep it at a steady rpm for the first while and whatnot.

Any more information out there?
Anyone from Intense?
 

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I was about to e-mail intense about this particular subject today. I am building a motor similar to their turbo project car and was wondering what a good breaking procedure would be. In particular with it being supercharged should I break it in with or without boost and if so should it be a low boost or the boost that I plan on running? Rev's, Some say to be gentle on it and others say to flog it? oils, I normally run penzoil 10w40 synthetic, should I not used synthetic oil, and if not how long before I should go back to synthetic?

I seem to get many varied opinion's to these questions, but I would like to hear what intense recommend.
 

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Just watched an episode of Hot Rod TV on spike and they say they reccomend to hold the engine above 2k rpm for 20 minutes once you get it running (obviously starting it for a second or two to make sure it runs/no leaks is ok). I don't think I'd count on a tv show solely for my engine building info, but its a place to start. IIRC they also said after 3k miles you can use sythetic and the motor is considered "broken in".
 

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intersesting, I though it would be more like 1k miles though. I am still curious as how intense approach their break in procedure.
 

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I always baby my engines for the first month.

No boost, and dont stay at the same RPM/Speed all the time. Example if your always driving to work in the Interstate or high way and your speed is 65-70 MPH, on the way to work drive like 65 for a while, bump it up to 70 for a while bump it up to 75 for a while...then bump it down to 60 or 65. Basically play arround with the speed and very the RPM from high to low.

I would recomend also keeping it under 3000 RPM just for safty sake.

After a few weeks...a month of driving nice, now you can have some fun. Get on it but I would not yet do a WOT run. Get her up over 3000 RPM now but dont be getting her up to 5500 or 6000 RPM just yet. In other words, bring the boost up slowly with the speed and RPM. For a few days/ weeks. You want your rings to break into the bore before you start in on the boost...heavy boost. ;)

When you feel that shes not going to come apart, nail it! :D

Also, a freshly rebuilt engine will use some oil, so you always want to check you oil and all other fluids before every drive. (plus under the hood inspection for leaks loose parts etc.)

Hope that helps you.
My $0.02 anyway for whats its worth.

~Farnsworth~
 

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smooth said:
john
whatever you do do dont do what paul and will did :eek: :D
lol had to!

Might I ask what they did? I'm assuming they didn't break their motors in before a hard run, but I must have missed the story, might add to the what-not-to-do side of this topic.
 

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break in

bumpin96monte! said:
Just watched an episode of Hot Rod TV on spike and they say they reccomend to hold the engine above 2k rpm for 20 minutes once you get it running (obviously starting it for a second or two to make sure it runs/no leaks is ok). I don't think I'd count on a tv show solely for my engine building info, but its a place to start. IIRC they also said after 3k miles you can use sythetic and the motor is considered "broken in".
they say that cause of the types of cams those engines use. we have a hydralic cam, we dont need to do that
 

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bumpin96monte! said:
Might I ask what they did? I'm assuming they didn't break their motors in before a hard run, but I must have missed the story, might add to the what-not-to-do side of this topic.
Lets start with Paul.
I saw his valve after his break in that was in two pieces, the 'round' part looked like a quater after you put it on a train track and had it run over (one of the scariest things i've seen come out of a motor). Dropped valve NOT good. :eek:

Will, well Will's car didn't get out of the shop after the first time it fired up. Blew before it hit the street IIRC. :eek:
 

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they say that cause of the types of cams those engines use. we have a hydralic cam, we dont need to do that
They used a hyd. flat tappet cam. That kind of cam needs to be broken in. WE have a hyd. ROLLER cam. Which since it has rollers on the lifters, it does NOT need to be broken on.
Now, as far as break in goes.....everyone seems to have their own method.
 

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mike3800gtp said:
they say that cause of the types of cams those engines use. we have a hydralic cam, we dont need to do that
Is that 20 min thing just for the cam then, I thought it had something to do w/ the piston rings?
 

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Howdy all,


Definitely do NOT use synthetic oil for break-in. For break-in, 10w30 oil is fine. As far as driving is concerned, my opinion is that a couple hundred miles of part throttle driving is fine for a street engine. After that, change to synthetic, and flog away. I have seen many high horsepower engines making 10000 r.p.m. dyno pulls used as a break-in.


BIG JEFF
 

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So Big Jeff, do you guys run the engines in with or without boost. And if you use boost do you run it at full boost or set it lower for the break in period.
 

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my opinion is that a couple hundred miles of part throttle driving is fine for a street engine.
I think he is saying part throttle as in no boost ;) I don't think a lb or two would destroy it but you don't want to be building 15.
 

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I understand part throttle as being part revs not boost. ie cruising at 1/2 or less revs for a few hundred miles. Can someone confirm?
 

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Im currently breaking my MP112 motor in. I usually break them in for 500 miles with ocasional WOTs..Not at first. You dont havt to run the motor at 3000 at first cause we have roller lifters. This cam break in proceedure is for flat tappets only.
 

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I used SYNTH oil on my first start up no problems, Viper and Corvettes have it Mobile one in there brake in

when motor is ready to start
pull the fuel pump fuse, turn over for about 20-30 second in bursts to pump oil to the top of the motor......

1. start and check for leak shut down and check again
2. start and hold it at 2-3k rpm for 20 minutes, it goign to smoke like hell lol usally whe the smooke is gone you can shut it down
3. shut down and drain the slug out (oil full of **** lol) and change filter.
4. sart again and lissen for anyhitng that sounds funny. give it a few smal revs. let it cool
5. take it out on the road, go from 30-65 swoly then just let of the gas and cost to 25, then up to 60-65. do this till you puke lol. this seats the rings. if you have a M5 leave it one gear to do this. if you have auto don't use overdrive. you will feel the car come alive more every time you do it !!! :D

the go easy on the motor for 100 miles and finally at 500 i let loose :D
i hit my revlimiter at 350 miles just to make sure nothing ****y was going on.

this also depens on the rings you have. with dimond you really only have to seat them and there good to go. stock ring need 1000-2000 miles to break in.

this is how i did my camaro 3.8 this summer and so far everything is fine. every time i stoped i poped the hood and checked things out just to make sure. also i was loging stuff with the mac scan tool and nothing major happened and eveyhting was fine, i ran the test that shut off every piston to check load and they was all in .5% of each other :D

i did this all NA only because i didn;t have my hole turbo kit in yet to install it.

hope this helps
 
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