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A bit to unpack here, and you are making some odd assumptions.

That wire either goes to an EVAP solenoid, AIR pump, or something else in that area ( I can look it up later, if you don't find it).

A PCV valve is not a common fail point, and is a pretty stable item. If your o-rings are seated properly, there's not much cause for issue there. When there's some crankcase pressure under it, it'll push up the spring and allow it into the intake, otherwise it sits there happily doing nothing under the MAP sensor.

Are you saying you have a vac leak somewhere, or the engine runs odd after you had it all apart. I can believe something got missed, or misaligned when reassembled that might need another look. It happens to all of us from time to time... Teflon on lower bolts, RTV in corners of lower gaskets, properly aligned all upper o-rings and plastic parts, EGR tubes sealed, etc... Could be anything.

Your radiator fans shouldn't turn on until you're almost overheating, unless you've adjusted PCM settings to lower the trigger temps. Have you driven around and watched the gauge to see where the coolant stabilizes at? It should sit around the 195 stock t-stat value unless changed, and may go about 10-15deg higher in traffic until fans start.
 

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Fuel rails don't have electrical connections, just fuel supply/return and vacuum reference.

The red 2-wire in that area is typically for the EVAP solenoid. You may also have EGR deleted based on 1st glance, which is a flat 5-wire plug that will be lonely behind the throttle body. There are occasionally AIR pumps on California-sold cars, but if yours isn't from that part of the country, or up north where block heaters are sometimes added, it's probably something basic.
 
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