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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A few years ago I bought a 1998 Lesabre for a friend with limited income so she had transportation.

I replaced the plugs and wires at the time. OEM all the way.

2 years ago she had a no-start issue when hot and from experience replaced the TPS, camshaft and crankshaft sensors. Car ran fine until a few weeks ago.

A couple of weeks ago, she started having no-start problems when cold (cranking fine), so I replaced the ICM, coil packs and MAF since they were old. Again, OEM parts other than the MAF.

Today she had a no-start and at one point it didn't turn over. When I went over, it started for me after 5 seconds. Now it sits in my garage.

No codes are thrown, and I suspect there are maybe 2 problems but not sure. I am planning to look at battery connections and engine ground (when I did the ICM I read 2 ohms from battery negative to the plate which seems high).

The recent no turnover episode might be operator error (not sure) and I understand I can't rule out anything replaced in the past necessarily.

Next I'm planning to check the battery connections and engine ground and plan to solve why there is so much resistance to the ICM.

Looking for advice on where else to focus. Security doesn't seem to make sense, ECM is not out of the question of course.

I will post in this thread when I figure it out.

Thanks guys.
 

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I'd also consider servicing the fuel system. Running on a low tank alot, like many of us do when we're low on funds, means crud from the tank gets picked up more often. A fuel filter change and some cycles of Techron or similar cleaner in a few fill-ups wouldn't hurt. May or may not play into the solution, but can possibly help avoid a future issue.

You can add a few thick wires to ensure the voltage is getting where it needs to (common for those of us running upgraded engine setups). An "alternator re-wire" is just a cable from the hot alternator wire to the big positive lug on the fuse box (only needs 2ft cable for W-body's, don't recall for big cars). We also run an extra ground from the strut tower to an engine bolt on/near the alternator case. You can measure how long you need, and grab them for ~$5/ea from the battery section at the store with pre-crimped ends and ~4ga black/red colored wires. Also, you can add a bigger ground from battery to chassis, battery to starter, etc. but that's beyond what you probably need to get it rolling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Dave, you are always on top of these threads. My name is also Dave.

Car has started 5 times right off the bat except yesterday. Battery (2 years old) was low on charge (11.8 V cold).

Positive lead was a little loose, now has been charging for a day and showing 12 to 12.3 sitting. Seems low to me but the charging voltage is 14.5 when running..

You might be right about the fuel system, I gave her a loaner for the time being.

Intermittent no-starts are tough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Car started 10 times now with the positive lead cranked down tight. Trickle charged and showing 12.5V sitting. I suspect Walmart didn't crank the lead down when she got the battery replaced 2 years ago so it wasn't charging properly and the ECM didn't have the juice it needed at start. Mostly short trips in town.

I'll bounce back in if anything changes but she is coming over to pick it up.

I'll probably replace the fuel filter out of caution soon.

Thanks Dave.
 

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Sounds good. Hope it goes well.
 
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