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Hey guys and girls. Just wanted to let you guys know that I recently swapped out my 10psi pulley that was making around 8psi according to my boost gauge, to a 12psi pulley. I now see 10-11psi on my gauge and it feels more torquey down low. I know there's a lot of people over here in Australia that recommended intercooling anything over 10psi , but my intake temps are exactly the same using the 12psi compared to what the 10psi was producing. Anyone else running a 12psi pulley on their non cooled L67?
 

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The biggest issue using an intercooler is IT MAY KEEP YOU FROM BURNING UP A SET OF PISTONS and more. The OEM pistons are somewhat wimpy and adding more boost to the intake may give you problems......like killing pistons. Been there done that......and it ain't pretty......

I would highly suggest getting a good intercooler and save you engine and at the same time you will be able to even go to a smaller pulley safely. Also when you add more boost to the engine, you will most likely need to supply more fuel using bigger injectors(many use 42 lb injectors).

Now as you go down these steps, you will also need to have you PCM reprogrammed. Highly recommend DYNO TUNE MOTOR SPORTS. They are very good at this process and give you great results.

Another thing to consider as you down this modding trail is you should have a bigger/better exhaust system, especially when you raise the BOOST PSI.

When I first went down this road, I KILLED MORE THAN MY FAIR SHARE OF PARTS. You don't want to go down this road without more supporting mods and tuning. BEST OF LUCK, Jake

PS, contact DYNO TUNE MOTOR SPORTS........
 

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The biggest issue using an intercooler is IT MAY KEEP YOU FROM BURNING UP A SET OF PISTONS and more. The OEM pistons are somewhat wimpy and adding more boost to the intake may give you problems......like killing pistons. Been there done that......and it ain't pretty......

I would highly suggest getting a good intercooler and save you engine and at the same time you will be able to even go to a smaller pulley safely. Also when you add more boost to the engine, you will most likely need to supply more fuel using bigger injectors(many use 42 lb injectors).

Now as you go down these steps, you will also need to have you PCM reprogrammed. Highly recommend DYNO TUNE MOTOR SPORTS. They are very good at this process and give you great results.

Another thing to consider as you down this modding trail is you should have a bigger/better exhaust system, especially when you raise the BOOST PSI.

When I first went down this road, I KILLED MORE THAN MY FAIR SHARE OF PARTS. You don't want to go down this road without more supporting mods and tuning. BEST OF LUCK, Jake

PS, contact DYNO TUNE MOTOR SPORTS........
Thank you for the reply mate.i appreciate your knowledge and advice! So far I have upgraded the coil pack,leads and spark plugs, a set of extractor headers with high flow cats' twin 2.5" exhaust system, 12psi pulley ,cold air intake.
 

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Thank you for the reply mate.i appreciate your knowledge and advice! So far I have upgraded the coil pack,leads and spark plugs, a set of extractor headers with high flow cats' twin 2.5" exhaust system, 12psi pulley ,cold air intake.
I have been up and down this road of MODS and hurt some parts along the way. A good intercooler is just about a MUST HAVE. The other thing that is very beneficial to a supercharged 3800 is a 3" exhaust system. Back in the day when I first started down the MOD's road I learned lots of DO'S and DON'TS.
When I finally elected to go with bigger exhaust(I went to a THREE INCH ZZP exhaust) the results were amazing. I'm running a 2.75" SC pulley(with supporting mods). ZERO KR and mind blowing throttle response......the only problem I still have is LACK OF TRACTION....... But a little throttle control and away you go......VERY FAST..... ONE last thing.... use 92/93 octane fuel or better. I'm running BP 93 and the GTP LOVES it as much as I like the power.....but there will be some traction issues........ nothing that a little gas pedal learning can get you thru that. I tried a few different types of tires for the street and finally went to FALKIN's(better than NITTOS). They don't stop all the tire spin but they are better that a few others I've tried. I found easing into the throttle helps quite a bit but there will be a learning curve for that.
Hope some of this helps you out one way or another. PS, I'm running AUTO LITE/MOTOR CRAFT 103's plugs which are working very good.
I hope all goes well for you and REMEMBER HEAT KILLS ENGINES. I do not run a thermostat but allow engine temps to warm up to 140 degrees before I start unleashing all the power. OH, and by all means run a top shelf motor oil. I personally run MOTOR CRAFT 10w30 synthetic. My recepie has been working very good for quite a while now and I'm totally satisfied with the results. You may run into several different opinions with what to do...... Mine has been working for a long time now with great results. Get back if you have any more questions and by all means pay attention to what other knowledgeable people are saying. Again I say take care and best of luck. Jake (mr goodwrench)
 

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Main thing you need to do is monitor how your engine is doing before pushing it beyond the basics. This will let you know if your setup is prone to knock or leaning out, and if it requires any additional supporting items to keep it safe. See what's available to you for AUS folks on the Commodore forums and vendors (MACE, etc.) for minor upgrades, and keep checking out places like this, GrandPrixForums, and our remaining vendors (ZZP, Intense, etc.) for ideas on what you might want to do.

Intercoolers are great, and I now own 3 different kinds for 3 different 3800 setups, but in my early years of modding, I was able to get down to a 2.7" pulley (15+psi) on 104 unleaded and a 3.0" (~13-14psi) on 92-93... without an intercooler on a stock L36 block with basic work supporting an XP cam (headers, large exhaust, 42# injectors, Gen V M90, self-tuning by me & local friends). That took a lot of careful tweaks as I would optimize for each pulley on my way down, and get the maximum value from each dollar my poor college self could spare.

Thermostats are not only meant to help bring the engine up to temperature quicker initially by not cycling coolant until it opens, but regulates how fast it flows through the engine. This means it will have plenty of time to soak up heat from the block and emit that heat during time in the radiator better, and at a more consistent and controlled rate. I'd suggest drilling a 160degF thermostat, running a higher water concentration (~70%) for better heat transfer, and forgetting about it, if only staying cool is the goal.
 
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