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Discussion Starter #1
This is driving me crazy!

I have an '01 SSEi, a few months ago, it started skipping under acceleration and the tachometer would drop to zero. The SES light came on and the codes were for Crankshaft Position Sensor and Catalytic convertor. The converter has been removed for over a year. It needed to be replaced and I didn't have the money, so I tood it off.
I replaced the CPS, but that accomplished nothing. I then replaced the Ignition control Module. The problem with the speedometer was solved.

The skipping came back. The code for the CPS came back.
I figured I the I had solved one of two separate problems, so I replaced Plugs and wires, sprayed the MAF with MAF cleaner, poured a can of seafoam in the gas tank, and cleaned the throttle body. The code for a bad CPS went away, but not the skipping.

No improvement. It continues to get worse in spite of everything I try.

I live on the coast. I actually live on a coastal island. So, each day I have several bridges to cross to get where I need to go. The skipping takes place when getting up to speed. Once I get going, the car drives great at a steady speed. When I go over a bridge or up any incline the "chugging" starts.

It's my understanding that if it is an ignition problem, there would be a code for a misfire. I have no such codes showing up. So, I'm starting to wonder if it's an injector, a vacuum issue, or something fuel/air related.

It idles perfectly, so pulling off one plug wire at a time to look for a bad cylinder isn't possible.

This thing is really getting bad! It doesn't backfire. There's just a skip or hesitation overy couple of seconds when I am accelerating.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I just can't figure out what would cause this problem that would not give me a code.

I had all codes erased yesterday (the only one was for the catalytic converter) and the SES light has not come back on, but the problem is certianly there.
Oh, I poured some Lucas injector cleaner in a half tank of gas today and have driven about 40 miles with no improvement.

The car has close to 200,000, but the engine was replaced at 135,000.

Thanks for whatever suggestions you might have.
 

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sorry to hear your having so much trouble with the Bonneville. here's what I would do I would eliminate the possibility of other bad sensors. sounds similar to when I had a bad mass air flow sensor cleaning it is hit or miss. with the car sitting at idle unplug it and see if the idle changes if it does then that's not your issue if the idle stays the same time to replace it. I may have an almost brand new one sitting in my garage that should work for you if that is the case. also try that with the other sensors. otherwise bring it into a shop and have them toss their 20 bajillion dollar scanner on it and theyll be able to see how the injectors are doing
 

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Discussion Starter #4
codes

The codes I get are PO226 and PO420. When I changed the Crank Position Sensor, that code did not go away. When I changed the ICM, the Crank position sensor went away. I have removed the CAT, so that code when erased, always returns.
Right now, the code I get is the code associated with the catalytic converter not working.
Thanks for your reply.

Hal
 

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codes

The codes I get are PO226 and PO420. When I changed the Crank Position Sensor, that code did not go away. When I changed the ICM, the Crank position sensor went away. I have removed the CAT, so that code when erased, always returns.
Right now, the code I get is the code associated with the catalytic converter not working.
Thanks for your reply.

Hal
ZZP has an O2 monitor device that will emulate a correctly operating emissions monitor......or they used to....Jake
 

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codes

The codes I get are PO226 and PO420. When I changed the Crank Position Sensor, that code did not go away. When I changed the ICM, the Crank position sensor went away. I have removed the CAT, so that code when erased, always returns.
Right now, the code I get is the code associated with the catalytic converter not working.
Thanks for your reply.

Hal
Go to ZZ performance web site or talk to one of their techs....... The have an EMULATOR that has a signal which will mimic convertor operation. I have been running one of these for several years now and it has worked great. NO ISSUES since that was installed.
 

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Back to your “skipping issue”...
When you replaced the crank sensor, ICM did you do a crank position variation relearn? It requires a capable scan tool.
I bet that solves the problem for you.

What brand plugs and wires are you using? Age if them?
How old is the fuel filter? Brand?
Have you checked for vacuum leaks or watched some live data on O2 sensors/fuel trims? The LTFT is probably one of the best indicators of a hard to find issue like that.
 

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This is a 2012 post... I think Jake and others are getting prompted to reply by the forum software pushing random posts to the top. I don't know how to address this, and it's probably a revenue thing on the money side of the web hosting beyond our control.

Hopefully, someone comes across your guys' suggestions if they do have a similar issue, and try them before having to reach out and feel lost, though.
 
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