problem after cam install

[meatyshells]

got everything all pieced together, and it fired up right away, it sounded great. didnt have any leaks or anything.

Drive it down the street, around the block come back everything is fine. I let it idle in the garage for a while then turned it off and went and took a shower.

Start the car back up and then drive to my work 15 min away, all highway driving. i pull into a gas station and the car dies on the way in. I pump gas and now the car doesnt want to start. It tried really hard. I let it sit for a little while. Started it up and it really struggled to start and i made it to my work, where it died as soon as i parked.
tried to restart and it wouldnt start. So i disconnected the battery and let the car cool down for about 30 min. Go back out reconnect the batt and it fires up right away no problem. Then the car sounded good for a little and then the idle started getting really loopy and it turned off.

I also thru a p0101 code.

Im not sure what to think, im hopping it has something to do with tuning. Im thinking once the car gets hot it's not getting enough fuel.
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[nuclearxp]

OBD-II Trouble Code: P0101 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Range/Performance Problem

Let everyone know what cam you went from and what you went to. It sounds to me like it could have thrown your fuel trims way off and confused the car once the LTFTs started kicking in which may also elude to why disconnecting the battery reset them. You may require a custom PCM or custom tuning.

Edit: If your VE table is right unplug the maf and if it runs okay consistently (probably won't run great) then you're right you've got tuning to do.

[1Hot97]

Could be anything from a vacuum leak to a defective MAF. I set no codes with my cam install. I did disconnect the battery, but I'm wagering so did Ryan. Doublecheck your connections and the vacuum lines. IDK if the MAF is part of your throttle body or seperate, like the LT/LS vehicles. If it's seperate, look for a intake leak between the MAF and the T/B.

[meatyshells]

it's the Abbott NA cam
210/220 .512/.512 112

the maf is in the tb just like on the other fwd 3800s. but i dont really think its the maf causing the problem. It was perfectly fine before the install, and i didnt even take the throttle body off the intake manifold when i was takening the engine apart.

because the car was running fine for a while i would like to rule out anything mechanically wrong. If i screwed up on the degreeing/timing when i did the install the car would run bad right off the bat right? And if my timing chain, skipped a tooth i would probably know about it right?

i hope it does have something to do with tuning, cause ill shoot someone if i have to take the car apart again

[1Hot97]

I'd still be looking at a vacuum leak. You 'could' disconnect the MAF and see if that changes the way it runs. It'll run on open loop if you do, and will help troubleshoot.

[meatyshells]

well when the car is cool, it starts up right away no problem, but it sounds bad. i can hear something coming from the engine, so im going to start tearing it apart again and finish tomorrow. I think i just went too long last night installing the cam and didnt get any sleep, so i forgot to tighten a bolt or something.
wish me luck

[chrisb]

Originally Posted by Mr. INTENSE

You DO need to perform the Crankshaft Variation Learn procedure if you physically install a new PCM, replace the crankshaft, camshaft, timing chain, crankshaft position sensor or balancer.

You DO NOT need to perform the Crankshaft Variation Learn procedure if you have new code flashed into your current PCM.

Scott

take a look before ya start diggin into it

[mcgrath]

Did you perform a crankcase variation after the cam install?

Ed

[meatyshells]

what is that?