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Motor & Trans Mounts Discussions regarding mounts of all types.

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Old 01-17-2010, 01:00 PM
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Engine Vibration? How to replace motor mount

Replacing your motor mount on a 2000 Buick Regal 3.8L V6 3800 Series II

Recently, January,16,2010 my 2000 Regal LS needed to have the engine mount replaced. After quotes ranging from $200-$250.00 I did some research.Since the part was $158.00 from Partsource!
When I had went for an allignment I was told I needed Drivers side wheel bearing and passenger tie rod...installed both came back and went for an allignment again. After a few bad test runs a mechanic discover lower control arm bushing were shot. Replaced and my car shakes like hell...Worst fears entered my mind. Going up hill the car would wabble left to right, upon acceleration the car would shake violently. I was forced to leave earlier for work and take my time! After ruling out 4 brand new tires and an alligment and 4 wheel balance, not being the problem. I began to research some similar cases.
My research lead me to this site.After sourcing the problem to a bad motor mount. I found MERC notes were some what helpful. But after reading his and undoing the Wishbone mounts then jacking up the vehicle I found a few flaws, and picked up a Hayes Repair Guide, although basic instructions were given a lot of common sense was needed.
In my posting here I hope to help anyone with this problem and some basic mechanic skills to do it yourself and save your money!My post today is to make changing your mount an easy and quick experience.
================================================== ===========================
Tools Required:
*2 floor jacks
*2 Jack stands (more the better for safety,...I used 4)
*3 pieces of wood (long nough to span oil & transmission pans) 2" thick each.
* 15mm open ended wrench,
*15mm Socket and ratchet
*Medium Strength Thred Lock(blue not red, red is perm.)
*Rubber sealant (I used QuickWrench Rust Buster)
*Lights
*Pry bar
*Hammer
*Air ratchet and compressor, or tire iron.
*Most importantly...you can't do this on you're own reqire a second hand.
================================================== ===========================
Step One:Securing the vehicle & removing the passenger wheel.
================================================== ===========================
From a secure spot under your vehicle jack the car up with one of your stands.Jack the car up to remove pressure on passenger side wheel. I used the Lower Control Arm plate. You will see a nice round circle with a bolt. The jack fits nice on that arm.
Once you have the tire off the ground, with either your choice of air ratchet or tire iron, remove the passenger side wheel. This allows you to view the splash cover where the motor mount is hiding.
To know you are in the right spot, find your oil filter. To the right of your oil filter you should see a black part of plastic. remove if you break those little rubber screws, you can use ZIP TIES to replace . Just remove the splash guard.
Now once the splash guard is removed, and you have secured the vehicle at a few good points with jack stands, and left the floor jack secured. You're ready for the next step.
================================================== ===========================
Step Two: Securing the engine from the oil and transmission pans.
================================================== ===========================
Never jack a car up from your oil or transmission pan. You will damage them and be out a lot of money and time.With 3 pieces of wood, balanced on your second floor jack, begin to slowly and I mean slowly lift.
*Important to ensure the wood is no longer than length of oil and transmission pan. Ensure woods length will not bind or exceed this length to ensure best pivot point of engine.
Now once you have jacked the floor jack up to the point where the wood runs from back to front of oil/trans. pans, jack the engine up slowly. I only jacked the engine up two to three extensions of the floor jack just to know the jack and wood have grip on the engine.
This is where the second person comes into play. Have your helper watch for any radiator hoses, or engine componets that may bind admist the engine being supported and jacked up.
Now we are ready for step three of this process.
================================================== ===========================
Step Three:Inspection of the old motor mount as it sits in it's place.
================================================== ===========================
I cleaned out the dirt, oil residue from filter changes past, and noticed several chucks of rubber split on my old mount. I knew it had to be replaced, when comparing to new part beside it I notice the entire top humps were gone. 2" of rubber missing can make your engine vibrate like all hell will break loose.
Now we can proceed to step four.
================================================== ===========================
Step Four: Removing the bottom nuts from the engine mount.
================================================== ===========================
With a 15mm socket and ratchet, remove the bottom nuts off the motor mount. TAKE NOTE OF HOW THE NUTS ARE POSITIONED. Left side nut towards passenger door will be the straight side of the mount. The right side of the mount you will notice is angled on almost a 45 degree angle. (see new mount to get this idea, see how one tab is different from the other, the mount only goes in on way make sure the tabs are going in the way they came out!)
You can undo these two nuts, spray a little Quick Wrench or WD40 on them if tight or add some heat with a low torch. Now for the top nuts a socket wont fit, this is going to take a few moments, as an open ended 15mm wrench is needed to remove the top nuts. Once all four nuts are removed, we are
ready to remove the mount.*KEEP ALL FOUR NUTS FOR NEW MOUNT!
================================================== ===========================
Step Five: Removal of Engine Mount.
================================================== ===========================
Now with the bolts released at the bottom,& top, begin to jack up the engine ever so slowly(no race here)until you have enough clearance to remove the mount.Trick hit the threads with a hammer from the bottom to release play in the mount. Once the engine is jacked up high enough, remove the mount.You may need to use your pry bar here, to wiggle it out. Again no race here be careful.
Once you have removed the old mount, clean out the bottom of the case the mount sits in. Why place a new part in it's old parts problems.If you think this step can be skipped, think again. The least amount of contamination the rubber and steel in the mount have to fight the longer the mount will last.
================================================== ===========================
Step Six: Installing the new mount.
================================================== =========================== Now before you place the new mount in, spray the rubber with a non corrosive spray sealent like, Quick Wrench it can be used on rubber to seal it from moisture, and repel oil damage.
I also suggest using a medium compound thred lock. (Blue) This should be applied to the top two threads and the botom to ensure added safety of the mount. Do not use perm.thread lock as you may need to replace the mount at a later date!
Now, once you have enough clearance go ahead and slip the new mount in, now get ready for the tricky part. Once you have the mount seated correctly and the threads are alligned,you are ready for the next step.
================================================== ===========================
Step Seven:Lowering engine ontoMount.
================================================== ===========================
Okay, now for the slow process of placing the engine on its' mount. This again is where two people come in hand. One to lower and one to guide the mount threds into the engine.
From the bottom of the mount,use the bottom threads to help allign the top.When your helper is slowly and I mean slowly lowering the engine,ensure the top threads are going to fit through the wholes on the engine plate.Here I used a little hammer to apply pressure the the threads of the bottom of the mount to coach the top threads in allignment with the engine plate wholes.
Once you know you have the wholes and threads lined up, have your helper slowly and I mean slowly drop the engine onto the mount. Before you release all pressure from the jack. Take the top threads and it's nuts, and with your open end 15mm wrench tighten the nuts.
Now release the jack pressure and complete the bottom nuts to the threads with your 15mm ratchet wrench.Once all for nuts are back on and secure and the engine is sitting flush, and the mount has been sprayed with protectant and the treads treated with medium strength thread lock, you should notice a difference in the engines overall performance. If you had a vibration like I did it's GONE! Now were are ready for step Eight!
================================================== ===========================
Step Eight :Putting it all back together!
================================================== ===========================
Replace the splash cover if the rubber scrrews broke use a few zip ties, to secure to back to frame....this simply protects mount harmonic balancer and serpentine belt from outdoor componets.
Remove blocks of wood, remove floor jack from oil and trans pans, remove all stands excluding the one suppoting bushing by lower control arm.Place wheel back on rim, tighten replace cap cover for rim, and once wheel on, and secured, lower jacks and foor jack.CONGRATULATIONS, you just saved $250.00 now that was worth it.
================================================== ===========================
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Old 01-17-2010, 01:00 PM
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contd...

This job was quoted by two different mechanics as 2.5hrs. This took me and my brother in law 1.5 hr. We replaced the engine mount and did an oil change at the same time...So you do the math this part is not rocket science. Just requires a few tools and a lot of patience.

Hope this helps, look for more posts on jobs I have done on my buick from me later. Enjoy and happy fixing!

Jeff from Ontario,Canada.
2000 Buick Regal LS 3.8 non-supercharged.
284 000 KM and it runs like new!

I'l upload some pictures of the new vs old once I get a moment to myself!
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Old 01-17-2010, 08:21 PM
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first id like to say is im not sure if it the same engine mounts as an 03 monte ss, but i changed my upper mounts in about 10 minutes. I replaced them with urathane mounts. I removed one at a time. after removing the one, I clamped it a vise and cut out the old mountwith a saw-zaw. once the center is cut out the outer rubber prys out easy. Then just slide in the new urathane mount and reinstalled it. Its really easy. heres the link for the mounts i used. MSP Polyurethane Upper Motor Mounts: 3800 Performance

With these mounts in i noticed 2 things, first you can feel the engine idle a little bit through the steering wheel and the throttle responce felt more positive. (without the engine twisting as much)
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Old 09-28-2010, 12:37 AM
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Feels like my transmission is shifting hard

Can you guys tell me, all of a sudden today my transmission feels like its shifting allot harder even when not in performance shift mode? I have a feeling its the engine or transmission mount. With the hood open when I put the car in reverse the engine moves quite a bit?
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Old 09-29-2010, 01:25 AM
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Now today when I drove to work and back home the transmission is shifting normally so I dont have a clue now why it was shifting so hard last night on my way home? I am thinking the transmission was still in the learning mode possibly?
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Old 09-29-2010, 03:55 AM
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Flbandit, If you had the battery disconnected for a while. Then yes, the trans went into "learning mode".
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2001 RegalGS with over 300,000. Plog, ported rear, 3"DP, 2.5" out the rear. 3.4 & 3.6 pulley,changes stats with the seasons, 12" duel Impala front brakes, HMS tuned, HPTuner=rookie, upgraded grounds & power wires. GM suspension upgrades, Yada, yada, yada....
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