Getting ready to run an XPZ cam, Dose double rollmaster still need to be modified? - 3800Pro.com Forum
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Go Back   3800Pro.com Forum > Engine > Cams/Heads/Valvetrain

Cams/Heads/Valvetrain Discussions regarding rocker arms, lifters, pushrods, springs, cams, heads, and other valvetrain components.

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Old 03-27-2011, 11:14 PM
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Getting ready to run an XPZ cam, Dose double rollmaster still need to be modified?

I am instlaling a XPZ cam next week and I am worried about the whole double rollmaster modification thing.

#1 Is the double rollmaster still made for the Ausie 3800 only and you still have to modify it. I guess you have to cut the inside edge to 45 degrees so its similar to the stock timing chain gear.

#2 I also read that you may have to machine the rear of the cam gear as well, Is this true.

#3 If i run this timing chain I will prob run the stock tensioner as well just because I am paranoid of the whole streaching thing.

#4 If I run 130 Lb springs How fast will it destroy the stock tensioner If I ran the stock timing chain. I prob wont do this just a thought. With 105 lb Springs and Intense stage 2 after 15k miles cam tensioner was slightly worn but not really bad. It prob would have lasted another 15 to 30k

#5 what are thoughts about running a single rollmaster with this cam and 130 lb springs. Just because I never heard of one breaking. (correct me if im wrong)

Sorry about all of the questions but i want to cover all of the bases.
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Old 03-28-2011, 08:37 PM
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#1 - Yes
#2 - Some people have reported this also
#3 - Don't use one at all, you'll see how tight it fits
#4 - N/A since I don't recommend using one and you should be checking your chain for wear
#5 - Do the double and have it machined. It's the right way to run 130lb springs.
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Old 04-23-2011, 07:26 PM
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Does anyone make a double

is there a double chain out there that you don't have to worry about all that bs machining stuff and crap that is just bolt on? I am in the same boat I am about to do the chain, cam, and complete built heads
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Old 04-23-2011, 07:45 PM
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Most all of them have to be machined in order to fit our american 3800's. Question, why are you running an XPZ cam? Everyone I have talked to said it is not worth the hype. You would be just as well running an XP or s1x...
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Old 04-23-2011, 08:18 PM
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Im running the Double with just the Machined Oil Pump cover and no problems. There is no point in putting a tensioner on the double chain because of how tight it is to start. Using one would likely wear it completely out in a month or so.
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Old 04-23-2011, 08:32 PM
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So just a machined pump cover is all u need

that is all that is need to run the double chain set up with no problems you still dont have to machine all the other stuff
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Old 04-23-2011, 10:52 PM
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Depends on if your willing to take the chance and get lucky, ZZP recommends running 2 front cover gaskets with the machined oil pump cover but your just asking for a leak with that setup. the best option is to have the chamfer on the crank gear machined to match the crank for 100% proper fit.
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:07 PM
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chamfer on the crank

does anyone know a machine shop and how much of a chamfer has to be put onto the crank gear to make the double chain work safely with using a machined oil pump cover?
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:50 PM
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This should help.

Take crank gear to machine shop and have em machine the backside 45* chambfer till it's 1/32nd past the tits of the keyway's, crocus cloth the hell outta the bore ID for easier install, slide it onto the crank using the oem crank sproket to drive it on, be carefull with the keyway, i leave the OEM crank sprocket on and use another on top of that (youll have 3 sprockets on) and tq the crank bolt tight to ensure the crank gear is fully against the crank shoulder
i have a rig for holding the cam timing gear still to do this, but youll crocus cloth the **** outta the cam gear bore so it'll go one easier, install the cam gear without the chain and Tq the cam bolt, then using the block face as a register point measure the block to chain tooth face distance of both the crank and cam gears while prying the crank/cam through endplay to find the endplay min/max distance. add half the endplay to the min distance of both then subtract, thats the distance the cam gear is sticking out farther than the crank gear making them out of alignment.
pull off cam gear and drop off to have it ground down -block/stone the front face of the cam gear to ensure the face sits completly flat on the magnetic chuck...the alignment dot typically has a raised edge from the machining process.

ive had to machine off between .022 and .030 off the back of the cam gear on all 5 sets ive worked on to bring em into dead alignment with both the crank and the cam in the middle of their endplay ranges. then the chain will be straight and both rows of the chain will have load on it as opposed to most of the load being on the outter/inner chain row on the crank/cam sprokets resectively. you dont need a ground oil pump cover only two paper GM front cover gaskets to have more than enough chain to pump clearance

have fun, good luck
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