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Go Back   3800Pro.com Forum > Engine > Bottom End

Bottom End Discussions regarding blocks, cranks, rods, flexplates, oiling system, etc...

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Old 07-02-2006, 09:08 PM
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How to rebuild the L67 Bottom end.

PLEASE BE PATIENT THERE WILL BE A LITTLE INFORMATION ADDED TO THIS AND CHANGED DAILY FOR A COUPLE OF WEEKS.
PICS WILL ALSO BE ADDED TO THE CORRECT SPOTS TO ILLUSTRATE WORDS.

please don't respond to this post unitl Its finished, Except for Turbocharged400sbc, As he is helping me do this. this article will be long enough it will take up two or three posts.

Before reading this please realizes….This is intended for educational purposes only.
Disclaimer
I do not accept any responsibility if you blow your crap up. This article is for information purpose only.

For this article I will be taking down and rebuilding a 1998 and later L67 3.8 liter series II engine.


TEARDOWN.

Before starting this major operation, please make sure you have a couple of thing is order.
1. Your work surfaces are CLEAN and well organized
2. You have the necessary tools for the job at hand.
3. USE THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE RIGHT JOB. I can’t stress this enough.
4. VERY IMPORTANT…Suggest getting an old egg carton, or divided holding box. You will need to Keep track of all the little parts, and keep them separated.
5. MAKE SURE YOU ARE DOING THIS ON AN ENGINE STAND….
6. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE DRAINED THE ENGINE OF ALL FLUID OIL/ANTI FREEZE. And not in your drive way.


Getting to a short block
After removing you SC and upper intake.
STEP 1.
VALVE COVER REMOVAL
Remove the vale cover bolts, this is simple and straight forward. After making sure ALL 6 bolts, count them, are out, simply pull up on the cover, and it will break loose. If it is stuborn DONT HIT IT WITH A HAMMER. Simply tap on it with a rubber mallet, very gently untile it moves.

STEP 2.
HEAD REMOVAL
Now rotate the engine on the stand so that the head you are removing is straight up in the air. There will be eight bolts holding each head on PIC BELOW

After locating remove these bolts start at the outside bolts and working your way towords the middle os the head. Crossing over to the opposite bolt as you come towards the middle.
You do not need to remove the rocker arms for this. Leave them on the heads for now. There are small exhaust studs at each end of the end of the head that will have to be temporarily removed to access the outside head bolt.

Remove all 8 bolts, COUNT THEM, place them in the trash.
Take some masking take and mark each push rods, UP - end and the location in which it is in, THIS IS IMPORTANT ONLY IF YOU ARE GOING TO RE-USE THE SAME PUSH RODS. Carefully grip the head on the inside edge, in the intake ports, and gently roll it back to you, whil lifting. BE GENTLE THE HEADS ARE HEAVY AND CAN GET AWAY FROM YOU VERY QUICK..

Step 3.
Repeat head removal on opposite side.

Step 4.
PISTON/CYL INSPECTION
Ok look at each piston for a couple of things.
1. how does the bore look. Is it smooth, rough.
2. Is there a ridge at the top of the bore.
3. Do the Pistons look ok. Black or mild brown is normal, with accompanied carbon build up. What you dont want is -
Cracks, hit spots, missing pieces, chunks, ETC. If there are pieces, or hit spots. Check the head in step 5.

Step 5.
HEAD INSPECTION
Place the head on you work bench with the vavles facing you.
Check for
1. If there was a hit spot in the piston, or anything not normal about the piston. I recommend getting a profesional check of the
head. It would be ashame to ruin a new engine for a bad valve.
2. What color are the valves. Intake valve will be the larger one. It should be black to dark brown. The exhaust valve should
a clean white as the pick shows below. AS ALWAYS IF YOUR HEAD HAS MORE THEN 10K I RECOMMEND YOU TAKE
THEM TO A COMPOTENT PROFESSIONAL. If the combustion chambers look ok it is your decision.

Step 6.
OIL PAN REMOVAL.

Rotate the engine upside down. remove the lower engine mount. There will be two bolts on one side and three bolts on the other,
COUNT THEM. Once they are removed simply pull up. The egine pan is held on by 20 small bolts. Remove them, and COUNT THEM. Once they are removed. Pick up that rubber mallet or dead blow hammer and gently tap around the outsid of the pan until you see it move. To remove it you have to pick up on the front while slidding it back to clear the pick up. Sometimes they are on there VERY well.
Under the pan there will be a plastic gasket/windage tray, simply pull it off, try to save it. But they are available from INTENSE.

Step 7
BALANCER REMOVAL.
Simple - http://www.intense-racing.com/ They sell one.
Or I rented one from auto zone. The normal balance puller won't work on these due to the ballance deseign.
Simly remove the center bolt with an impact. If you do not have an inpact.. I place a thick screwdriver through the flex plate to act as a holding tool. then break it loose with a LONG breakover bar. If you dont have either one of these tools. GO GET ONE.

Step 8
WATER PUMP/TIMING CHAIN REMOVAL.
Remove the 4 ,COUNT THEM, boltsholding the water pump pulley by placing an old fan belt arount it clamping down on it with a crow bar.
Remove the 9 bolts, COUNT THEM, shown in the picture.

Step 9
PISTON/ROD REMOVAL

Rotate the block so the cyl are facing down. What you have been waiting for. Couple of things to do before removal. First While holding the crank from turning grab each rod with your hand and move it back and forth on the crank. You should get NO movement. If there is movement, either your engine was knocking or was about to. If one any of the rods move lay it aside adn you will have it resized by the machine shop. You also need to go rent ot buy some stamping tools. Some of the rods are marked from the factory, kinda the luck of the draw. But start by choosing the correct cyl rotate it so the rod is straight in the bore and the bottom out toword you. Stamp the number of the rod to the CAP AND THE ROD ON THE OUTSIDE. This will do a couple of things. First ir tell us where that rod goes back, It also tell us which direstion they face. If you get these mixed up it can be Bad. If you get them mixed up - go to the machine shop and have them resized.
a. remove the two bolts holding the rod cap on. VERY VERY carefully tap the cap, and Carefully remove it.
b. Cut two pieces of rubber hose, and place one on each bolt sticking out of the rod. This will keep the bolt from scratching
anything.
c. CAREFULLY tap the rod with the handle of the rubber mallett in a downward motion. Place your hand
under the cyl you are removing and simply catch the piston. During this process be very carefull and
Take your time. Place the cap and nuts back on.. and set aside.
d. Repeat five more times. And set them aside.



Side note......Ok I recommend throwing these head bolts away. All head bolts are designed to be a torque to yield bolt. Meaning the bolt stretches when it is tightened. These bolts, once tightened, become fatigued and SHOULD NOT BE REUSED. If you choose to reuse them understand it is at your own risk, and could cost you a head gasket later.
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Last edited by donniearcher; 07-03-2006 at 12:22 AM.
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Old 07-14-2006, 02:00 AM
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Is there any way to post the pistures I need in the correct place withought having them hosted somewhere els?
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TURBO....10S ACHIEVED

WHEN THIS BABY HITS 88MPH - YOUR GONNA SEE SOME SERIOUS SH1T
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Old 12-09-2007, 12:11 PM
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HELLO.... TWO YEARS LATER.....

REMOVE THE CRANK.
MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHERE THE MAIN CAPS GO. Gently tap them until they come loose, place them in the exact line you removed them. they will also be marked by a arrow on the top of the caps telling you in which direction they go. I usually mark them just to be safe.


CHECKING THE BLOCK.
OK so you have the engine apart. Things you want to check on the block.
Go get a flash light or place the block under a bright light. Couple of things you want to check.
a. the cyl bor should have a cross hatch pattern on them, menning they ahould have sone lins "scratch marks" crossing each other making thousands of X's patterns.
b. Take you finger nail and drag it up to the top of the bore, is there a ridge at the top? If so go rent a ridge rimmer from auto zone, and remove it so it is smooth.
c. Is there any rust?

IF any one needs to get aold of me .... contact me at donniearcher@msn.com
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TURBO....10S ACHIEVED

WHEN THIS BABY HITS 88MPH - YOUR GONNA SEE SOME SERIOUS SH1T
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Old 12-11-2007, 09:30 PM
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Hey! Tahnks for comming back for an update Donnie!
I PM'd or emailed you a while back asking about this thread.

My rebuild got pushed back toearly ext year instead of now, but I cpould still use your advice and tips.

I'll shoot you an email around that time if you dont mind. Thanks again for the write up!
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Old 12-11-2007, 10:10 PM
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No problem, donniearcher@msn.com

I will try and get this finished.
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DONT MESS WITH TEXAS.
Super T61 Turbo - FMIC - INTENSE SX1 turbo cam -
And every other INTENSE part known to man.....

SC'ED 12.48 @ 110 mph
TURBO....10S ACHIEVED

WHEN THIS BABY HITS 88MPH - YOUR GONNA SEE SOME SERIOUS SH1T
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