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Go Back   3800Pro.com Forum > Engine > Bottom End

Bottom End Discussions regarding blocks, cranks, rods, flexplates, oiling system, etc...

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Old 03-14-2008, 11:57 PM
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Oil pan gasket replacement.

I believe I'm putting this in the right place, if not, I am sorry.

I own a 98 Buick Park Avenue Ultra and I'm set to replace the oil pan gasket in a few days. I ran a search on this topic, and frankly what I've read scares the hell out of me. Talks of raising the engine up and unbolting cross members and such. I haven't done much work to my car, just simple stuff like spark plugs, oil changes ect, and this looks like this could possibly be a nightmare.

I've been under the car and as far as I can see there is nothing blocking or getting in the way of simply unbolting the pan and dropping it down. Is it as straight forward as it looks for my car compared to a W body, or am I getting in over my head? I'm doing this job myself since I'm broke right now and my mechanic is being kind enough to let me use a lift at his shop.

So please, does someone out there know if this is a simple job on a G body car, or is it just as big of a hassle as it is on another platform? If it's a tricky thing then I'll just hold onto the parts for down the road when I can afford the labor.
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Old 03-16-2008, 12:12 AM
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I think the PA is different from what you've read, which is mostly the W body. I've heard the PA and Bonnie can just drop the pan out the bottom. Make sure you use sealant on both sides of the new gasket.
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Old 03-16-2008, 12:25 AM
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Thanks.

I talked to a friend of mine last night who works at a GM dealership, and the instructions he saw said it will indeed just drop out. However this wouldn't be the first time the how-to matches reality. I ran into a similar problem rebuilding my supercharger snout several months ago.

And my mechanic already told me I'd need some RTV, which I have.
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Old 03-19-2008, 06:33 PM
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hey, what is the torque specs on a the bolts for the Oil Pan? I have a Buick LeSabre that i need to do the same. It is the 3800 non supercharged (of course). Can anyone hook me up?

thanks

jake
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Old 03-19-2008, 06:38 PM
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The instructions I have say "Tighten the bolts to 14 N-m (124 lb in)".
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Old 03-20-2008, 07:15 AM
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Derek... before you do the pan gasket please clean it down super well, drive more and look to see which end the leak appears at first.

Reason I mention this is because the hard plastic gasket/windage tray isn't fun on our cars even though we don't have to commit suicide like the W body guys. I changed my gasket, added sealer and even bought super deluxe sealant too many times to admit publicly. I found the leak when I pulled my motor, the back engine cover bolts like to loosen up this allows oil seepage that looks from all possible angles (including through inspection cover) as an oil pan gasket.

Therefore if you have a leak that seems to start at the drivers end of the motor (aka back of motor) it is likely not going to be fixed by changing the oil pan gasket.

Another tip/trick is if you are going to change your oil pan gasket, you may want to consider upgrading to an aluminium oil pan like found on the 2000+ Bonnies. It has a much better inlaid rubber gasket and is a structural pan. The other two things you would need is the pickup tube and oil filter adapter. Ed Morad is a great source for the parts.

In case you are interested here's a pic of the part number for the pickup tube

And the pan.

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Last edited by BillBoost37; 03-20-2008 at 07:24 AM.
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Old 03-20-2008, 10:11 AM
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Thanks for the info, but it's a little late. I'm doing the job this afternoon. My mechanic looked the engine over and he said it looked like it was just coming from all around the pan.
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Old 04-10-2008, 08:06 PM
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I just wanted to report that I got the job done a couple weeks ago all is fine. It took about 4 hours and I only ran into a problem breaking the pan and gasket loose once the bolts were out. It took 2 pry bars to get it off the block because whoever worked down there last used a whole tube of RTV on it. It's been 100% leak free ever since.

And just to confirm, there was no need to jack up the engine or get around a cross member.
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Old 04-10-2008, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PunisherBass View Post
And just to confirm, there was no need to jack up the engine or get around a cross member.

I hate you.
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Regal GS(X), 3.5 installed (3.3 hanging around)" MPS pulley, SLP headers; cat back; CAI, Intense upper engine mounts; 3rd gen LSD; S1X cam; HPTuner, 1.6 Roller rockers, ported S/C, Autolite 104's, 180 t-stat, headlight wiring upgrade, HIR low beams, SLP springs, GM sway bars and trailing arms, fancy-ass rims and cool badges.
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